Aconcagua Expeditions – How to climb Aconcagua without spending so much money

The captain of the British Army, Bazil Marden, of the Bengal Lancers Regiment, breaks in in mid-July 1928, in a solitary, winter and ski attempt, a daring attempt, to call it some way, cost him his life. corpse was found 5 months later above 4800m.The first Argentine to reach the summit was Lieutenant Nicolás Plantamura, on March 8, 1934, in the company of Italian mountaineers Pablo Ceresa, Pedro Ghiglio, Renato Chabon and Chilean muleteer Mariano Pasten.On the same day, several hours later, a Polish mountaineering team made up Konstanty Narkiewicz, Victor Ostrowski, Stefan Daszinski and Stefan Osiecki summited. This Expedition opened a new route, through the northeast glacier, which has been called since then and in his honor “Glaciar de los Polacos”, before it was called “Las Vacas.”The first lady to reach the summit was the French Adriana Bance, on March 7, 1940, in the company of the German Juan Linky, the members of the Club Andinista de Mendoza, Pablo Franke, Pablo Etura and Juan Semper.In December 1946, Alfredo Magnani leads an expedition reaching the summit at the age of 16, becoming the youngest climber to achieve this goal.Climb AconcaguaThe first winter ascent to the north summit, by the normal route, was achieved by the Argentine soldiers Emiliano Huerta, Felipe Godoy and Humberto Vasalla, at the beginning of September 1953.During the summer of 53/54 a strong French expedition, led by Rene Ferlet, reached the bottom of the “Horcones Inferior” ravine on the edge of the Glacier of the same name. There they set up their base camp, in what is now known as Plaza Francia ( 4100m) ready to besiege the vertical wall of the great mountain. After acclimatizing and carefully studying the slope, they chose as a route, the great spur that borders on the right, the gigantic central avalanche channel of the wall. This spur is relatively protected from the frequent landslides of rocks or ice. Towards the end of the second third, it bursts to give rise to a large bacon of ice called “Glaciar Superior”. This is a cutting glacier that pours its ice cascades into a void of almost 2000m, Climbing Aconcagua main dangers in the ascent of this spectacular, almost vertical, wall of ice and stone. They used more than a month of acclimatization and preparations, during which they equipped fixed ropes, in the most difficult sections, close to the spur. In February 54 (last year they were at MZA celebrating 50 years of the feat) they launched themselves to the top. The Group was made up of: Guy Poulet, Pierre Lesseur, Adrian Dagony, Edmund Denis, Lucien Berardini and R. Paragot, the best French mountaineers of the moment, which was to say in the world.For seven days they struggled between unstable rocks and ice, sleeping for a few hours practically hanging, with the abyss on their backs, severely affected by the cold, they manage to reach the summit, several Aconcagua Climb of them suffered frostbite on their hands and feet that in some cases ended in death. amputations. There was then talk of a “heroic bravado”. Undoubtedly the French created some of the toughest routes in the world, being at the time, the most difficult wall, with the greatest slope and height, above sea level, that avant-garde mountaineering managed to climb.