Aconcagua Mountain Climbing
History of the Ascents – Records
In 1883 the German explorer Paul Güssfeldt attempts the summit unsatisfactorily, reaching 6450masl, just 500mts from the top, between January 20th and 21st. This remarkable adventure, leads the way towards future expeditions.
In 1896 the English Briton Edward Fitz Gerald organizes an expedition to the summit accompanied by the guides Matthias Zurbriggen, Stuart Vines and Nicolás Lanti, among others. On January 14th, 1897, on his second summit attempt, Fitz Gerald achieves 6800mts and Zurbriggen reaches the summit, becoming the person who first registered having reached the top of Aconcagua. Finally, on February 13th of that year, Lanti and Vines attain the summit.
Lieutenant Nicolás Plantamura, from the Argentine Army, reached the summit on March 8, 1934, following the Normal Route in the company of two Italian climbers, P. Ceresa, P. Ghigliole, R. Chabod and the Chilean muleteer Mariano Pastén.
In March 1934 the Polish climbers Otrowski, Narkiewicz, Daszinski and Osiecki opened a new route to the summit through the beautiful Northeast glacier, recording the eighth ascent to Aconcagua. Ever since this glacier has been called “Polish Glacier”.
Achieved by the French Adriana Bance, on March 7, 1940, together with the German Jorge Link and the members of the Mendoza Mountain Climbing Club: Pablo Franke, P. Etura, D. López and J. Semper.
The German climbers T. Koop and L. Heroid reached the South summit for the first time in January 1947. They followed the Normal Route up to the middle of the gully, and from there headed to the right and took the saddle between the two summits.
On January 23, l953 the Swiss F. y D. Marmillod and the Argentines F. Grajales and F. Ibáñez resched the South summit opening a new route. Likewise, this represents the first female ascent to the South summit.
From September 11 to 15, 1953, the Argentines E. Huerta, H. Vasalla and F. A. Godoy achieved the first winter ascent through the Normal Route.
This extremely important first ascent of international repercussion was made by the French R.Paragot, G.Poulet, A.Dagory, L. Berardini, P.Lesseur, and E.Denis, who after seven hard days of climbing, finally reached the main summit towards the end of February 1954.
During the month of February 1978, using alpine style, the Argentines G. Vieiro (dead), E. Porcellana (dead), and J. Jasson opened a new route of considerable technical difficulty and called it “Argentine Route”.
On January 2, 1979 the Spanish X. Erro, M. Zabaleta and Y. Hugas achieved the first repetition of the Southeast edge, reaching the two summits and joining them for the first time. They descended by the Normal Route of Mt Aconcagua..
In the austral winter of the year 1980, the Catalan N. Serrat and A. Villena, supported by several climbers, reached the summit of Mt Aconcagua following the Polish Glacier, resorting to skiing most of the route.
In January 1981, the prestigious French climber J. M. Boivin piloted a two-seater hang-glider, descending in 30 minutes to Plaza de Mulas. The co-pilot was L. Marchal. The two men had to climb up to the summit three times until the weather conditions were adequate for the flight.
The French climber I. Girardini reached the summit on January 1981, after four days climbing and following the French/54 route, with the Messner exit variant, thus establishing a first outstanding record.
This hard first ascent was performed by a Japanese expedition in August 1981. T. Hasegawa reached the summit alone after following the Messner route.
During the winter of 1984, the American climber Titonne Bouchard and her husband climbed the South wall following the Messner route, becoming the first woman to climb this difficult wall.
On February 2, 1985 the Captain of the French Air Force, A. Steves, opened his super-light paraglider some 200 meters below the summit and impelled by ascending currents rose some 20 meters above the summit, descending in 25 minutes to Plaza de Mulas.
First Mendocinian ascent to the South wall of Mt Aconcagua
After an alpine-style ascent, following the French/54 route, the Mendocinian D.Alvarez, L.Sánchez, D.Rodríguez, A.Randis and the Colombian M.Barrios reached the summit on February 26, 1986.
Fastest Aconcagua ascensions via Normal Route (from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp)
- January ’87, L. Cichy (Poland), 9 hours.
- January ’87, A. Randis (Argentina), 8,7 hours.
- February ’87, D. Alessio (Argentina), 7,48 hours.
- February ’87, M. Sánchez (Argentina), 6,32 hs.
- January ’89, M. Dacher (Alemania), 6,l5 hours.
- January ’89, M. Smith (U.S.A.) 6,13 hours.
- January ’90, D. Alessio (Argentina), 6,07 hours.
- December ’91, D. Porsche (Germany) 5,45 hs.
– In February 2006, the Peruvian Holmes Pantoja Bayona carries out the round-trip route to the summit from Horcones, the Park entrance, in 20hs and 35 minutes, leaving the previous day at 10.45Pm, reaching the summit at 12.35PM and arriving again to Horcones at 7.15PM. We are honored that Holmes (Apu) belongs to our staff.
– In 2013, the Portuguêse Carlos Gómez achieves a new record with 15hs and 42 minutes.
On February 6, 1991, Alejandro Randis climbed the two summits in one day, leaving from Plaza de Mulas. Total Time: base camp – South summit – North summit and descent: 14 hours and 30 minutes.First ascent to the Polish Glacier of Mt Aconcagua in one day
In February l992 Miguel “Lito” Sánchez, Marcelo Acosta and Gabriel Cabrera became the first climbers to reach the summit from Plaza de Mulas, climbing the Polish Glacier in one day (descending via the Normal Route on the same day).Largest number of ascents in one season of Mt. Aconcagua
In the 2002 season, Gabriel Cabrera, a climber from Mendoza, reached the summit on six occasions in 42 days.First ascension via the South Face (without equipping the route)
– In 2002, the French Bruno Sourzac makes ascent via the South Face in 20hrs, without equipping the route previously.Youngest person
– In 2007, the American Jordan Romero, with only 11 years old, turns into the youngest person who ever climbed the Aconcagua.
– On December 16th, 2008, another American Matthew Moniz, aged 10, gets the new record.
– On February 2009, the Rumanian girl Crina Coco Popescu, 14 years old, obtains the peak via Polish Glacier.