Aconcagua Expeditions – Adventures on Aconcagua

This route, product of the imagination and audacity of the master José Luis Fonrouge, leads through a series of ascending crossings, from the base of the wall, to the beginning of the “sandstone rocks”. There it connects with the original route/54.This series of ascending traverses circumvents the seracs of the “Middle Glacier”, avoids the rocky difficulties of the “great towers” and the entire first part of the “French spur.” Although this is one of the easiest routes on the South wall, its route is exposed to avalanches coming from the serac barrier of the “upper Glacier”.Trekking AconcaguaFonrouge and his partner climbed alpine style in just four days. At that time it was the fastest climb of the wall, a merit that lasted more than two decades. This fact, nothing surprising, if we take into account Fonrouge’s skills as an extreme avant-garde mountaineer. This talented mountaineer always conceived the hardest and most extensive climbs, in strictly alpine style. Let us remember that in this way he achieved the second ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, by a new route (1964) and likewise, the second ascent of Poincenot Peak (1969), also by a new itinerary. When in 1934 the Poles Otrawski, Karpinski, Osiecki and Narkievicz made the eighth ascent of Aconcagua, climbing for the first time the immense glacier on the East-North-East face, they were considered authors of a very important feat, and there is no doubt which was AconcáguaCurrently this glacier has been climbed practically by all its logical routes, even in winter (Catalan Winter Expedition Aconcagua 80, first winter ascent of Los Polacos Glacier). The Polish/34 and direct routes have also been overcome, alone and in a very short time.In the 1990s, little remains to be discovered on this glacier, but it remains a great classic ascent. The appearance of Aconcágua on its East-North-East face is perhaps the most attractive. It does not have the monotony of the extensive rocky outcrops of the normal route, nor does it have the overwhelming severity of the immense south wall. The resplendent “Polacos” Glacier encourages the mountaineer to traverse it, suggesting beauty through its pure and simple lines.Ascension AlternativeAn interesting alternative way to climb the “Glaciar de los Polacos” is to follow the “direct route”.This ascent can be done starting from the aforementioned Camp 2, or access the base of the glacier starting from “Plaza de Mulas”. In the latter case, starting from the base camp installed in “Plaza de Mulas”, at 4,200 meters, you reach “Nido de Cóndores”, 5,350 meters. where the camp is located 1.Aconcagua Mountain GuideFrom the latter, a slightly ascending journey begins, heading north and then east. This leads to a place of large blocks of rock at 5,600 meters, from where you can see the glacier and the top perfectly. Snow and ice abound and it is a very windy area.Camp 2, 5,600 meters. Although the camp is to the west of the base of the glacier, it is an appropriate location for the descent, since it is in a straight line descending from the ‘Independencia’ refuge. Even with fog it is possible to find the tent.