Aconcagua Expeditions – Aconcagua Always Has a Surprise for Us

In 1833, the German Paul Gussfeldt, under challenging equipment conditions and practically uncovering itineraries, brilliantly began the story of the conquest of this mountain within the precariousness of the means of incipient mountaineering. With inaccurate data on the summit situation in the cartography of the time, he left in February from Chile and managed to reach the height of 6560 meters. His remarkable adventure, just 500 meters from the summit, opens the way for future expeditions.In 1896, the expedition led by the English scientist and mountaineer Edward Fitzgerald sought a different route from Gussfeldt’s: it has arrived by the Argentine route. It has initially entered through the Valley of the Cows, looking for the foot of the mountain, from Puente del Inca and Valle de Los Horcones. He discovers the route that will later be normal.The following year, in January 1897, during Fitz Gerald’s second Aconcagua Ascents, Mathías Zurbriggen, the Swiss guide who also accompanied him on the previous attempt, ascended on the 14th alone, for the first time in the history of Aconcagua. Four weeks later, in the company of Stuart Vines and Nicolás Lanti, he defeats him again for the second time. The first Argentine to reach the top was Lieutenant Nicolás Platamura, part of an Italian expedition; this achievement was carried out on March 8, 1934. After these first ascents and until 1946, the mountain was crowned twenty times by expeditions of different nationalities. The first Argentine corresponds to the year 1942 and is entirely made up of military personnel.How to climb AconcaguaIn 1949, the first female ascent was made by Adriana Bance de Link. In 1944, a group of three Chilean climbers gave the first to their country. In 1934, the first completely new route was opened from the normal one. A Polish expedition, in addition to ascending for the first time the Mercedario (6800 m, north of Aconcagua and in the Argentine province of San Juan), explores the hitherto little-known massif of Cordón de la Ramada and enters the foot of the Mount Aconcagua by the Quebrada de Relinchos and facing east opens a new route to the great mountain, which from that moment receives the name of Glaciar de Los Polacos. The members of this group were Konstanty Narkiewicz-Jodko, Adam Karpinski, Jan K. Dorwaski, Stefan Daszynski, Stefan Osiecki and Víctor Ostrowski. In 1953, Federico Marmillod, his wife Dorly, and Lieutenant Francisco Gerónimo Ibáñez traced another route, the southwest edge, undefeated until 1978. The exploration of Aconcagua does not stop, leaving, at last, the fabulous south wall. This wall has 3000 meters of unevenness and is all climbed in higher degrees, on rock and ice, of extreme difficulty and with an application of artificial climbing above 6000 meters.