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Routes - Polish Glacier (Glaciar de los Polacos)

The Polish Glacier Route was open on 1934 by a group of polish mauntaniers (it explains its name) and it was the first route after The Normal Route. It?s known worldwide for its natural beauties its enormous landscapes and it has become in one of the classic routes for sptortive andinists.
Trough this route the itineraries are basically two: Polish Glacier Traverse Route and Direct Polish Glacier Route, in both the ascent goes to Plaza Artenina and both show us wonderful places of Mount Aconcagua. However, the possibility and the decition of which of them is go to choose depens on oneself, taking account the technical level, the experience and the risks it implies.
They both star the same way: Plaza Argentina, Campo 1 y Campo 2. There there must be taken the decition obuot the follwing trraject: “Direct” Route or “Traverse” Route.

here that in this route it isn’t necessary to use ropes because the way crosses around the base of the glacier. Probably it will be necessary to use pilot and crampons in some parts.

Polish Glacier Direct Route
The Direct Polish Glacier Route ascends across the glacier. It presents higher level of difficulty and demands better training conditions and better technical preparation than the “traverse”. It’s very important to have experience in walking on snow and ice and in using ropes, harness and ice axe.
From Camp 2, this route has to different variants (Direct A and Direct B): The first one, which is the original Polish (Direct A - the red one in the graphic of this page) is longer and softer. There must to deviate and cross the glacier to the left onto a rock outcrop called Piedra Bandera, where camp 3 at 6.400 m. abovev lea level, form there turning right is the esaiest way to the top.

Polish Glacier Traverse Route
The Polish Glacier Route (also called False Polish) is the perfect combination between beauty, peace and challenge. This is because it starts trough the more beautiful way wich less climbers choose and which joins the Normal Route up tu the top. The first point is Vacas Valley and after three days we can find Plaza Argentina, the camp of the mithic “Polish Glacier Route”. There comes a period of adecuate acclimatation and the way goes on to the altitude camps: Camp 1 and Camp 2, where you can enjoy the pleasure of the magnificent site of Polish Glacier.
After that , “Traverse” goes on crossing the Northwest face and joining, at Berlín level, the Normal Route, then continues to Filo del Guanaco that leads straight to the top. The way down is also trough Camp 2 and Plaza Argentina. It’s important to point

The second /Direct B . green color in the graphic) is very steep and ascends from Camp2 trough ice following the right bord of the glacier. Then it is necessary to go from one large jutting rock to another on the right up a 30° gradient.
The gradient increases and becomes narrower until reaching a "funnel", where the gradient is 50° and the altitude is over 6.500 meters above sea level. From there, walking on hard snow on the ridge of the funnel the summit can be reached. The descent is usually down the Normal Route of Aconcagua, arriving at Independencia shelter from where camp two can be reached again
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